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DISTANCE: 64.5 k/40.1 mi; TIME: 5h 23m; AV: 11.9 kph/7.4 mph; ODO: 1996.7 k
I got up at 6:30, packed my panniers, and took them down to the foyer. I had some breakfast in the bar and I was on the road just before 8 am. I cycled quite a bit of the way up to the Cruz de Ferro. I had to push several times on the very steep parts.PHOTOS:At the cross, I took a photo of a German pilgrim with his camera and he did the same for me. I had some bread and cheese and then moved on. After the summit at 1,517 metres, the way down was steep and needed caution, but not as fiercely steep as I had been led to believe. El Acebo was a very old village. Many of the houses had wooden balconies. This is typical of this area, the Maragatería. I stopped in Molinaseca at a bar for an orange juice.
In Ponferrada I visited the Templar Castle and took photographs. I also went to a bank and changed my large denomination notes. I carried on out of Ponferrada, following the pilgrim walkers’ route. Some of the way was across rough paths, but eventually I rejoined the old NVI. At Cacabelos I stopped for a lunch at the Bar-Restaurante “Europa.”
When I arrived in Villafranca del Biezo I had quite a search for the refuge, due to my own stupidity and incredulity. I was welcomed to Ave Fénix with a glass of cold water by one of Jesús Jato’s daughters. I had a brief look at the facilities and decided to stay. After choosing my bunk, I went to get my panniers off the bike and Juan turned up with another Spanish cyclist I had met at St. Jean-Pied-de-Port. The reunion was brief, because they elected to go on to O Cebreiro that evening.
After unloading my panniers, I checked the bike and found two spokes needed changing. Jesús saw me stripping my bike and led me away to his workshop, indicating that I was welcome to borrow any tools I needed. Such kindness is typical of the friendliness of the camino - just the same as Jacques Ragu in St. Prest! After that I showered and changed and started recording the day.
I went to look for a phone, but found only one, with a long queue. Dinner at the refuge was soon to be served, so I went back. After the meal I walked into the town and phoned Jenny, but got the call minder again.
Me at Cruz de Ferro
El Acebo village street
View of Montes de León
River and bridge at Molinaseca
Entrance to the Templar Castle
Street in Villafranca del Biezo
Ave Fénix!
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