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DISTANCE: 79.7 k/49.5 mi; TIME: 6h 2m; AV: 13.2 kph/8.2 mph; ODO: 2076.4 k
I left Ave Fenix just before 8 am. Señora Jato had kindly boiled me some hot water to brew my herbal tea. The route up to Ruitelan was quite easy, but from there on it got steeper. I had to push up most of the hills on the smaller roads. I arrived in O Cebreiro about midday. I visited the little church and found it more moving than the big cathedrals. I think the Gregorian chant may have contributed to the atmosphere. I got two sellos (stamps) in the church sacristy and a post card of the interior.PHOTOS:I continued on to Triacastella. There were several long hauls up hill at first, then a very long run down to the village. I had lunch there in a small restaurant. This was the best value meal I had for 1000 pts. The choice on the menu was very good too.
The route to Samos and Sarria was not as difficult. There were less hills to go up, but some steep descents. I checked into the refuge in Sarria. I went shopping for bread, cheese, and spokes for the bike. I was down to my last two spokes and needed one to compare the size. I found the bike workshop given in the Cycling Pilgrim guide and bought four spokes and nipples. The man at the workshop asked me if I was doing the pilgrimage. I am sure he has sold spokes to other pilgrims, because it is the extra weight of panniers that does them in. I also phoned Jenny, without a problem this time.
I could not find a suitable restaurant for my evening meal, so I fell back on my emergency rations - bonita (tuna), with mayonnaise, bread and an apple.
All three roads up to O Cebreiro
Cebreiro village
Inside the church at O Cebreiro
Ancient round thatched buildings at O Cebreiro
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