Saturday, 12 May Sarria to Arzua

DISTANCE: 79.9 k/49.6 mi; TIME: 5h 17m; AV: 12.7 kph/7.9 mph; ODO: 2156.3 k

I seemed to have a good night’s sleep, but I was slow to get the energy going that morning. I left the refuge at about 7:30 am. The bar which said it did breakfasts was not open. I then remembered that it was Saturday, so things are slower to get moving. I stopped in Portomarín and bought bread, bananas, and what I thought was water. It turned out to be lemonade, but it made a change. I forgot to look at the church in Portomarín. Evidently the West facade was sculptured by Master Mateo who did the Portico de la Gloria in Santiago cathedral.

I went straight through Palas de Rei. It had been looking dull in the SW and started to rain just outside Palas de Rei. I put on wet gear and sheltered until the worst was over. I then continued to Melide and had lunch.

I continued on my way to Arzua. It looked black in the distance and the first drops of rain began to fall. I tried to shelter, but it was obvious it would not stop. I started cycling again, but it got worse. I carried on to Arzua and the refuge. There was no one to book pilgrims in, so I started to take off my wet outer garments and then booked myself in. There seemed plenty of room and I chose a bed. The refuge is newly refurbished; the showers are new and the dormitory has under-floor heating. I spread my wet clothes out under the bed to dry.

After a shower and change, I went in search of food. I chose the “Hostal Teodora.” The meal was Mixed Vegetable Selection, Pork Chop with Chips, and Cheese Cake. This place should be in the guide. It has a comprehensive a la carte menu, but does an adequate set menu too. I came in at 8:15 pm and had no problem getting an early meal.

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