Sunday, 13 May Arzua to Santiago

DISTANCE: 40.2 k/24.9 mi; TIME: 2h 59m; AV: 13.4 kph/8.3 mph; ODO: 2196.5 k

I got up at 6:30 am, having slept really well. I set off into light rain and managed to avoid the heavy rain like yesterday. I felt much more “with it” that day and enjoyed the ride. I briefly visited Monte Gozo. There is a monument there to pilgrimage and the Pope’s visit to Santiago. Unfortunately one element of the design has rusted and spoilt it by running rusty water down the East face and discolouring the stone. It now looks a bit “forgotten.”

When I arrived in Santiago, I followed the route into the city via the Porto do Camino. I must have missed a turn, because I finished up at the end of the old town. However, this was at Rúa Entremuralles, near the hotel “A Nosa Casa,” so I checked in and left my bike and panniers until a room was ready.

I attended the midday pilgrims’ mass at the cathedral. It was a shame that my Spanish was not up to following the priest’s address in full. I sat next to an elderly nun in a white habit. We exchanged greetings during the “Peace” and I stepped out of the pew so that she could make her communion.

After the service I visited the statue of St. James behind the alter and gave him a “hug” on behalf of the family and all my sponsors. I also visited the crypt, where St. James’ remains are interred. It was all very emotional for me, having come all this way on the pilgrimage. The effect will last several days or more, I am sure.

I returned to “A Nosa Casa,” claimed my room and freshened up. I then had lunch at “Restaurante Obradoiro.” After a look round the town, I went to the Pilgrim Office and registered for my Compostela. I bought a folder at the shop opposite to protect my Compostela. I searched and found the Correos, in order to retrieve my parcel tomorrow. I reorganised my bumbag and added the postcards and other brochures to the folder with my Compostela.

I searched and found a cycle shop and a launderette for tomorrow. I then had a beer in the bar of “Mesón A Lareira,” the first alcohol I have imbibed for two months! I phoned Jenny to give her the latest news, “I’ve arrived!” I had dinner at “Restaurante Ribadavia.” Of course I am not supposed to drink wine, doctors orders, but there is no way I am visiting Galicia without tasting the local vino. It is almost unobtainable outside of Spain and the Galician white wines are delicious!

As I left I saw it was raining quite heavily. I decided to have a Spanish brandy in the bar and see if it stopped or eased. It did not, but I enjoyed the brandy!

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