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DISTANCE: 79.2 k/49.2 mi; TIME: 4h 52m; AV: 16.2 kph/10.1 mph; ODO: 2377.4 k
My cold had progressed onto my chest, as usual, and I needed to get something to break it up. Nothing was moving in the morning at 8:30 am. I could not go out as the door handle only allowed passage one way. I had to wait for Señor to come on duty. The bar next door was not open either. One good thing, the day was bright and sunny!PHOTOS:Eventually I set off without breakfast and had my bread and cheese at about 10:30. There was a Mirador just before Mondeñedo and I took a photograph of the town from above and had an orange juice in the bar. In Mondeñedo I had a look round the town and bought some cheese. I also got a jar of Vick at a Farmacia, for my cold.
As I reached the coast at about 2 pm, the road turned East and I experienced a head wind. I stopped for lunch in San Cosme at a restaurant that had a sign on the wall about the Camino del Norte. After lunch, the patron who served the meal, showed me his book of pilgrims who have stayed in his refuge, while travelling the Camino del Norte. He stamped my Pilgrim Record and I wrote a bit in his book, dating it and mentioning St. James the Great at Ruscombe. He gave me a map of the coast covering the area of Barreiros. He told me that it was very beautiful and I should take the next road on the left to go down to the coast.
I went along the coast road as he suggested and it was pretty. They have done much development in the area with new houses and an improved road surface. It changed considerably when I entered the area of Ribadeo! Although it was sunny the East wind was cold and I needed my jacket to cut it. I arrived in Ribadeo at about 5 pm. I booked into “Hostal Ribanova,” a two star. It was rather an old building with a very wide staircase, a bit seedy, but cheap and functional. They have no restaurant, but there are plenty in the town. The bar just up the road does breakfast at about 9 am. I may do my own thing again and buy bread.
I walked into the town, photographed the view across the ría, bought bread for tomorrow, and phoned Jenny. I then had a superb meal at the “Restaurante Mediante” in the centre of the town. My half bottle of Alberiño wine had more life in it than the one I had in Santiago.
View of Mondenedo from Mirador
Coastline just before Ribadeo
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